2004 Raphael Estate Merlot

Clifford James Dumais

ON THE NOSE: Shampoo, some sour cherry, green pepper, kerosene and just a hint of cream in the back. Actually this wine smells like something between a cheap Monastrell and a cheap Chianti to me. Neither Darcey nor I particularly like this nose at its first pour. We have decanted the bottle and we’re hoping that with time it will improve. . . .

We have to report that several hours later the nose has not improved markedly, although there is a touch more fruit here, and a smidgeon more sweetness; I also smell something akin to tiger lilies, but we find we are simply not impressed with this nose, not at all! . . . . . . . . .
ON THE PALATE: This Merlot tastes, at first, a lot like what it smells like at first; not that great. I would never guess that this is a Merlot if I were to taste it blind. After a weak attack I get an acidic punch of soap and chemicals: YUK! The finish is extremely soapy, and I know that it is not the glass I am using because I carefully wash each glass ONLY with hot water and rinse with fresh spring water, then hang upside-down in a rack. I am not feeling this wine. I think we’d best give it a couple of hours before going back, but that sucks because we really want to sip it now. Hardly ever have we had a GOOD wine that we couldn’t enjoy right out of the bottle; the only wine that comes to mind that was not immediately drinkable but ended up being pretty darned good was the Pieve Del Vescovo Lucciaio Vendemmia 2002, which was only approachable after three or more hours. . . .

OK … we’ll wait and see . . . .

Several hours later the nose has only slightly improved, but the palate has not. The finish is simply awful. How can anybody consciously release a wine as bad as this at this price? At $6 I would not be complaining quite as much, perhaps, but then again I would likely not have bought it. If this is the quality of wine that you can produce in Long Island, and this is the price you must charge to make a profit, then you are clearly in the wrong business. Your land would be better used to plant organic vegetables for the local restaurants, or some other benevolent exploit, but not Merlot grapes. Sorry guys, but this wine is terrible. I like it only slightly better than the “Protocolo Red” I was forced to try once ($6); I mean, I am continuing to drink it, but largely only because I keep waiting for it to show me something more than this. But I don’t think there’s anything here to show, ergo nothing to wait for. . . .

Another hour-and-a-half and there is some perfume that is starting to mask the chemical smell, and sometimes the smell is not objectionable, but that is not what one wants form a wine: an occasional OK aroma. We do not like this wine; this wine sucks, in all honesty. And that is all that needs to be said. Do not drink this beverage, and if you do, do not confuse it with good, actual wine; it is best to consider it an experiment by those who wish they could make good wine. If this winery wishes for us to give a second opinion, or to try another offering, we are open, but please do not sell this liquid to the general public and call it wine!