Arcadian 2002 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir

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Joe Davis claims that his wines are more Burgundian in style and approach. Whenever I hear a California winemaker say this, I often expect to taste a half-assed approximation of Burgundy. That is not the case here. What Joe really is striving for and achieving is the same purity of expression presented in Burgundy while recognizing the unique qualities and challenges that California brings.

This Pinot, from Sleepy Hollow Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, still has the big, ripe fruit that SLH is known for. However, it doesn't possess any overripe or jammy flavors. Instead, it exudes essence. This is the essence of Sleepy Hollow fruit at optimal ripeness: A nose of cinnamon, brown sugar, and spices, imparted by the use of whole-cluster fermentation (this is what ripe stems should taste like). On the palate, bright Bing Cherry, plum, Asian spice, pepper, and dark berries, all tied together with an electric rush of acidity. The finish leaves a lingering touch of licorice, mushroom, and chocolate-covered cherry.

No one would ever mistake this for Burgundy, and thank God for that. This isn't trying to be anything but what it is- the essence of its California site, a pure expression of place, and ultimately, a superb Pinot Noir.

Tasting Tags: acidity blackberry blueberry cherry chocolate licorice mushroom plum stone